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Understanding Afro-Caribbean hairdressing

The Corona virus outbreak and resulting Government restrictions have had an impact on all UK business sectors. The outbreak has affected many Afro-Caribbean hairdressers trading in the UK. During the lock down, I wrote this article to help you understand Afro-Caribbean hairdressing in the UK. While my focus is on Afro-Caribbean hair salons, most requirements apply also to other kinds of salons.

Services – Afro-Caribbean hairdressers provide a range of specialist hair services and treatments in salons or barber shops. This services include cutting, styling, colouring and blow drying for both men and women. They also offer specialist techniques and treatments, such as relaxing, braiding, cornrows, dreadlocks, twists, plaits, weave extensions and lace wigs. At The Locplace we specialise in Sisterlocks. We also offer Dreadlocks and Microlocs services.

Premises – Afro-Caribbean hairdressers trade from salons and barbershops, which are usually based on high street premises. Many provide their services on a mobile basis at their clients’ homes, mobile salons, while others rent a chair on an occasional basis. There is also a rise in home based salons.

Licencing – In some parts of the UK, hairdressing salons and individual hairdressers must be registered with their local authority. Salon premises (including home-based salons) must be registered with the local authority environmental health department. After receiving an application for the registration of hairdressing salon premises, a local authority environmental health officer will inspect the salon premises.

Knowledge and skills – Afro hairdressers require an in-depth knowledge and understanding of Afro-Caribbean hairstyles and hair treatments. Under the Consumer Rights Act 2015, Afro-Caribbean hairdressers must provide their services with reasonable care and skill. Afro-Caribbean hairdressers undertake continuing professional development training courses. They also keep up to date with developments in their sector and improve their awareness of trends by attending events, trade journals and industry resources. 

Prices – The prices charged by Afro-Caribbean hairdressers vary depending on the type of hairstyling or treatment, how long it takes, the length of the client’s hair, the hair products that are used and the expertise of the hairdresser.

Payment – Hairdressers typically accept payment in cash, online bank transfer or payment apps. As a safety measure against Corona virus, many salons are adopting a no cash policy and are requiring payment at reservation.

Hair products – Afro-Caribbean hairdressers throughout the UK who use hair products or supply them to clients must comply with the Cosmetic Products Enforcement Regulations 2013, which were introduced in the UK to ensure compliance with the requirements of the EU Cosmetics Directive. Under the Regulations, it is an offence to supply or use a cosmetic product (which includes products used on clients’ hair) that may cause harm to health when used.

Afro-Caribbean hairdressers require hair products formulated for Afro-Caribbean hair, which is characterised by a flat hair shaft with a twisted structure and a thin diameter, creating varying degrees of curl. Afro-Caribbean hair is graded as type 3 or type 4 hair, depending on the degree of curliness.

Specialist brands of hair product for Afro-Caribbean hair can be sourced from a variety of reliable wholesalers or suppliers. Costs vary considerably depending on quality and brand.

Terms and conditions – The Consumer Contracts (Information, Cancellation and Additional Charges) Regulations 2013 (CCRs) require Afro-Caribbean hairdressers to provide clients with specific pre-contract information or terms and conditions , such as their pricing, payment and appointment cancellation terms, before confirming their appointment. To comply with the CCRs, the pre-contract information must be made available to clients in writing, treatment price list or on the hairdresser’s website and in their standard terms and conditions (Ts and Cs) of booking.

Health and safety – The Health and Safety at Work etc. Act 1974 and the Health and Safety at Work (Northern Ireland) Order 1978 place a general duty of care on employers and the self-employed in relation to the health, safety and welfare of anyone else affected by their business activities, such as clients, suppliers and members of the public. Anyone working as an Afro-Caribbean hairdresser must maintain high standards of hygiene and infection control. Sanitation is a very important factor to consider when choosing a hairdresser. The Health and Safety at Work Act 1974 place a general duty of care on Afro-Caribbean hairdressers to protect the health and safety of their employees, clients and anyone else that may be affected by their business activities.

DBS – It is good practice for Afro-Caribbean hairdressers to undergo a criminal record disclosure check and to hold documentary evidence of this in the form of a certificate. This will be particularly important if they intend to provide regular hair treatments to children or vulnerable adults.

GDPR – To comply with the Data Protection Act 2018 (DPA 2018) and the General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR), any personally identifiable information or data that the hairdresser holds about their clients or employees should be stored securely and used only for the lawful purpose for which it was collected. In addition, hairdressers must have a data protection policy and notice that clearly explains how personal data collected and held by them is managed and used. The policy should be in writing and can be included on the hairdresser’s website.

Tax and IR35 –Afro-Caribbean hairdressers who are given tips by clients are personally responsible for declaring these to HM Revenue & Customs (HMRC) through their self-assessment tax return and for paying any income tax due on these tips. HMRC introduced rules, called IR35, which are intended to prevent avoidance of National Insurance (NI) Class 1 Contributions and tax payments by Afro-Caribbean hairdressers and self-employed hairdressers.

Current market issues – UK has estimated that the population of England reached 55.67 million in July 2019, with 3.5% of people identifying themselves as black. Figures reported in March 2019 indicated that of the 35,000 hair salons in the UK, only 302 were salons that provided Afro-Caribbean hairdressing services 

Figures reported by ‘Black hair Magazine’ in 2018 revealed that in the UK, £5.25 billion is spent annually on haircare. Spending by black women accounted for 80% of total hair product sales.

According to hair loss clinic the Belgravia Centre, common Afro-Caribbean hairstyles, including relaxing, braiding, weaving and cornrows can result in traction alopecia.

Challenges – Afro-Caribbean hairdressers are at increased risk of dermatitis and skin conditions through regular contact with hair colourants, water, soap and equipment-cleaning products, as a result of frequent hand washing and cleaning of equipment such as hairbrushes, combs and scissors. The HSE has published a guide for the hairdressing sector, which provides examples of practical measures required by hairdressers, in order to reduce the risk of dermatitis, allergic reactions to hair products and asthma. For example, Afro-Caribbean hairdressers must ensure that the room in which they provide hair treatments is kept well ventilated and they should wear disposable gloves when shampooing, bleaching or colouring hair. At The Locplace we only work on clean hair. We do not wash hair. 

Cancellation and missed appointments is another challenge facing Afro- Caribbean hair sector. Most services are booked in advance. When appointments are missed, or cancelled without sufficient notice, professionals are often unable to fill the vacancy causing substantial financial impact to the business.  Many Afro-Caribbean hairdressers allow their clients to cancel appointments up to 48 hours’ notice without charge. Some hairdressers require clients cancelling without 48 hours’ notice to pay 50% of the appointment cost and clients failing to show up for their appointment are required to pay 100%, provided this has been made clear to the client before the appointment is confirmed.